I recommend… Your car should use R134a. Honda does not manufacture oil. I personally have used Purolator in all of the 5 Accords I have owned with not one problem. After the second can went in, center vent temp went as low as 47 and settled at 49. After replacing all o-rings and flushing the components with paint thinner, the system held vacuum and overnight held a nitrogen charge. Use any other fluid at your own risk. By the time the filter is clogged, the transmission needs overhaulin … g.
Are you going to take the opinion of the people at Honda or someone who really just has an opinion? The above answer is only partially correct. Do you really want to take a chance using a fluid when Honda specifically states that you should only use genuine Honda fluid? Be sure to check your owner's manual for the correct fluid type. Make sure the condenser is clean, as well as the area between the condenser and radiator, cooling system working properly etc. I personally use Pennzoil in my 2004 Honda and have since I bought my first Honda in 1989. But it's hard to argue with a 30 degree temp drop on a 15-year old system designed for a different refrigerant. Notice they both said it did not shift perfectly. Then, I'll charge it with nitrogen and makes sure that hold for a while.
Also install a premium oil filter such as Purolator or Wix. You mean oil pressure light. It has a single wire plug, hard to miss. Leaves go under the cowl, then since there's no cabin air filter, they get mulched by the fan and caked in the evaporator. Look on the oil fill cap or in your owner's manual. Either you are very low on oil or else oil is not getting pumped to your engine. Also, how much R-134a will this system need and what pressures should I hope for? There is really no debate about this.
. You can charge to about 80 to 90% of the R12 charge, then tweak it by adding an ounce or so at a time until your vent temps stabilize, and do add slowly allowing the system to stabilize, this is where many make the mistake. I'm assuming I need to disassemble those parts to replace the o-rings. It is a good idea to replace the pan gasket after removing pan. It is designed to last the life of the transmission.
Feels maybe like it slips a bit more, not quite as hard of a shift. Every car I've looked at has a sticker that says some basic emissions data, engine size, and the type of refrigerant used. I hope you enjoy I did record on my Iphone so I know it switches views etc. The close tolerances of the Honda engine require the use of this oil for initial startup. Severe engine damage will occur.
Any parts store selling Purolator filters such as Advance Auto Parts can tell you the correct one to buy. You might also have a faulty oil pressure sending unit, but I wouldn't run… Back of the engine, towards the firewall, below intake manifold. My plan is to flush the system, replace the accumulator, replace the seals, draw a vacuum, charge with nitrogen to check for leaks and dry things out, draw another vacuum, and charge with R-134a with fresh oil. You should always attempt to verify the information with your vehicle manual or information provided on the underhood stick, sometimes also located on the top of the accumulator. I'm going to try the job with the existing condenser--if it doesn't seem to perform well and I can't find any other issues, I'll go to the parallel system. Also use a quality oil filter. On the bottom of the transmission there is a drain plug.
The manufacturers switched in the early 90's. If you can't find a transmission dipstick any where in the Nubira engine chamber, then it'll be electronically controlled. Refrigerant and oil capacity guides are based on data provided by sources such as AllData and Mitchell. By the way, answer is: The dipstick is located at front of transmission, next to the engine block. Before reassembly I'm flushing all components with paint thinner.
Once again, thanks to all! The Purolator Pure One is one of the best filters you can buy. The plug is located on the lower right front edge of the transmission, easily accessed by removing the right front tire. Four cylinder models will need 2. The high side gradually went up to 170. Another thing to remember on a Honda.
Not one problem in all those years. Do not use any other oil and make sure to use a premium name brand oil. The transmission must be disassembled to get at the filter. If you're going to convert, use ester oil so you can go back to R-12 without changing oil again. He is right - don't drive your car any more. Anything else I need does this system have an orifice tube or is there any other new part I need to get? The other way to tell is to look at the two charge ports. The 2006 Honda Accord requires 5w20 oil.
Use exactly what your owner's manual recommends and that is 5w20. Do not use a generic… it calls for 5w-20, but in the hot summer i would recommend 5w-30. I'm in the middle of the job now. Is this a good time to replace the expansion valve, or is the 15-year old one likely good, or what? The transmission drain plug is located on the passenger side of the case. It may answer your question. The leak in the system turned out to be a crack in the pressure switch.