I think I should rebuild it to a 500 or. I rebuilt the carb but the real problem was a bent tang on the float. Stock Carburetors The stock carburetors on early Mazda rotaries are excellent parts, well designed and well built. Just follow the fuel rail which sits above the fuel injectors and figure out which way is in and trace it around and you will see a part with a vacuum line attached to it and it willl be attached to the fuel rail. If you're plannning to reuse the pump, be careful not to rip it. Also, remember that it is very common for mechanics to mistake ignition problems for carburetor troubles.
It has always been garage kept and looks perfect. Removing the pin and washer should disconnect it at that point. With the circlip off, the pin should push through. Finally, if you wish to remove the fuel rails, there's a bolt on the side as well as 2 bolts holding it to the top. Keep track of where each of them goes. If the holes are pretty plugged, you can strip the plastic from a twist-tie same ties used for garbage bags , and use the wire to clear most of them.
In addition, be careful with the top bolts - there's a screen contained inside which can fall apart pretty easily. Attempting to use a kit on another engine application might be possible, but you would need to undertake your own research and retune the carburetor for this application. The primary jets and secondary jets in combination control the mixture at open throttle. This controls the vehicles speed. The seller is fairly adamant about not starting the rotary motor before a potential sale.
Grab a toothbrush and start scrubbing. With everything else removed from the main body, it can now be detached from the lower throttle body. It may need a light tap if it's stuck to the gasket. To remove it, you must first remove the bottom-left screw holding the accelerator pump to the main body - otherwise the head of the pin will get stuck when you slide it. It's located on the rear drivers-side corner of the carb amongst a bunch of clutter and can be near-impossible to get at.
It is a one owner and always garage kept. This can create running and performance issues that often manifest themselves as either starting and idling trouble, or a lack of smoothness or surging at cruise. I've had a lot of headaches with these carbs to the point where I'd say if it's running perfectly fine, don't create headaches for yourself by pulling it apart unnecessarily. You either have a bad fuel pump, fuel pump relay or the pressure regulator is bad. If this carburetor is used on a bridge ported engine, the only problem is lack of sufficient power, partly because it is too small, and partly because of intake losses. On a stock or street ported engine, the lack of a choke system on these units makes cold starts very difficult, even in warm climates.
If you'd rather not spend the time reading, just disconnect everything connected to the carb, labelling as you go. At the bare minimum, ask someone you trust who has knowledge of rotors to advise you and walk you through it. Too much fuel was flowing through the carb. If it wasn't flooded before you took the carb off and everything's working correctly, it should start without issue. A carburetor provides fuel delivery for non-fuel injected vehicles. It meters the amount of air coming into the engine and supplies the appropriate amount of fuel for combustion.
Having sat that long without any use spells disaster for the rotor apex seals, among many other things. Remember, if only the idle changed and you had to adjust the stock idle setting, there's probably something else wrong. Don't leave it in too long or you'll see what looks like oxidizing start to happen. If you know your Year Make Model, put it in the selector so that we can guide you to a product that fits your vehicle. Follow a Haynes, carb, or shop manual.
A little soak in simple green followed by a rinse can help. Once it's clean, take it out of the pail, and rinse well with warm water. The more open the carburetor throttle, the more air comes in, and the more fuel it mixes with the air. Label them, make sure you know where they go. If the car stops performing well, there's probably something other than jets causing the problem; changing them will only mask the symptom. Next, make sure all the passages are clear, particularly in the main body and lower throttle bodies. He is thinking crazy prices and I want t.