There are two ways to install a T-5 transmission for a stick equipped car. Now we're going to strip these. In my case I'm having to utilize lower engine mounts as well to help correct things. Deluxe T5 Conversion Kit Includes: - New Ford Racing Super Duty T5 transmission with factory style shifter - New Ford T5 bellhousing - Separator Plate - Late model clutch fork - Clutch fork cover for bellhousing - Billet steel flywheel 28oz. We'll get the retainersin place, and then we can slide it all the way back. Now that we're underneath our car, we've got a few obstacles we're going to run into. I fitted the T5 box using all parts supplied in the kit it went in with no problems except the gear shifter gaiter but that's fine.
And we'll just pry this off. We're going to start by pulling the shifter, then we'll move under the car and work on the transmission. And now we're going to remove the cotter pin that holds the equalizer bar on. Now you can grab your caps and bolt them back down. Other than that, everything else went in smooth and I like cruising the T5. For cars with automatics you'll need to first install a clutch pedal and round up the clutch activation parts either manual clutch linkage or a cable operated clutch.
Now we're ready to bolt the plate to our firewall. Next we're going to remove the starter. There are six bolts holding our bell housing to our engine, two down here, two at the very top, and then two along the side here. We'll put it between the two bolts. Emails are serviced by Constant Contact. Now we'll fish it around our filter.
There you can see the difference between your original bushing and the new bearing we're going to have to install. Groucho, I prefer the mid 93 up gt mustang box, here is some more info for you , from Manual Transmission Equipped Cars When the car is equipped with a 3 or 4 speed manual transmission, the job is a lot easier than converting from an automatic. It's recommended to spot weld remove the original tunnel structure and move it back, and reuse. Put our pry bar in there and kind of push them apart as well. Slide the cable through the hole we just drilled, and line up the plate. The support plate is equipped with a tool free cable adjustment.
Once the master cylinder is removed, we're going to remove these two top bolts as well so we can install our plate. An ordinary 65 driveshaft assembly will do, the 31 spline job you have will need modification or replacement. May require shortening the driveshaft and drilling 2 holes in the adapter plate. It's going to be right where we marked it, right up in here. You will also need the V8 flexplate and torque converter. Info, parts list and pictures: I used the T5 bellhousing and did not use an adapter plate set up.
Now that our 3-speed's out of the way, we can see our factory bell housing and fork. It is also a good idea to change the aluminum bearing retainer to a steel retainer. You're not going to have this on your coupe or fastback. Now we're going to use the marker to mark a hole where we're going to drill, get right in the center. Use the 86-93 World class V8 version.
It'll take right around 3 quarts to fill your transmission. I suggest locating a drive shaft with the more common 26 spline trans yoke, it would be easier to find a transmission to match. If I put in a T5 for a customer, it is new-out-of-the-box. Now we're going to remove the stud off the side of the block. There is no right or wrong here. We'll put the retaining bolt on for the speedo.
Now we'll install two of the new metric screws for our clutch. Slight clearancing of the shifter opening in early may be required. If you can't do it or don't feel comfortable, take it to a shop. If you want to be extra safe you can buy the T5 new. We're just going to thread this in just a little bit. The difference is in the internal components and also the gearing. Now we're going to separate the equalizer bar-clutch bar linkage, and remove this little cotter pin that holds it onto the bar.
By far the easiest 5-speed installation for you is the T5. Before we can move on to pulling the drive shaft, we want to hit the drain of the transmission and get as much fluid out as possible. They enable you to significantly improve the gearing and acceleration of your car, while maintaining gas mileage and highway cruisability. If you are using a late model engine, you will need to change the flywheel. The shift lever on the trans and I think the internal rod are different. Even fewer of those are still working well enough to be worth installing in a customer's car. You may unsubscribe via the link found at the bottom of every email.