While the videos featured on this channel do go into detail about particular repairs this channel does not claim that the information provided in said videos are 100% complete and accurate. I took it to a mechanic on oct 7th and they couldn't duplicate the no start issue and couldn't find anything, so I was asked to bring it back when their mopar guy was back. {In the attached pic, the voltage scales for the two traces were not set the same. Is that true, or am I missing seeing it someplace? I had to use vise grips to grip and pul out the old sensor. There are 3 relays that could chatter during start, and no reason to expect the post has identified the one that was chattering.
You lose all power to the car. Wiring at fuse box and computer checked. No service engine light is on. This seems to have them stymied. {In the attached pic, the voltage scales for the two traces were not set the same. Does the relay have proper voltage at both the control leg and the load leg? This seems like a situation where some experienced help might be the best route. Follow your repair manual over this channels videos.
Since you can do work on cars; make a ground wire to go from the engine to the body and see if anything at all improves. I would monitor fuel pressure. On oct 19th I brought it back to the mechanic still thinking it was a fuel pump issue and they said the crank senor was not responding. You might even find signs of damage due to the high current. Other than that, I would test for battery voltage at ignition coil and injectors while cranking. If there was no spacer on a used sensor, it is possible to stick it in too far and the ring on the flex plate can break it. I have no idea what all the abbreviations mean, and my electrical knowledge is minimal, but I do know that Chrysler minivans of this era had problems with the soldered connections where the connector pins were attached to the printed circuit of the instrument cluster.
From under the vechcle, unclip the wire plug. Hey, thanks again; I really appreciate all your help with this! If you are coming to a stop it will shut down completely but will restart. They did, and it died on them. As I understand it, the output should vary between 0 to 5 volts as the throttle is opened. If not that would be my next move. Fusebox and computer replaced with working ones. It is scrapped off the first time the flywheel moves when you start it Engine Performance problem 2002 Dodge Caravan 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 60,000 miles i am having an issue where my caravan stalls when it gets warmed up.
The replacement is doing fine so far. I found a video on youtube where the wires in the harness melt together. Can you see it looking into engine compartment from the top? While the battery and tray are out of the way it's an opportune time to remove the adjacent fuse and relay box and check the connectors underneath it for corrosion. As for service info I suggest you purchase a factory service manual for the vehicle. I've owned a Dodge Caravan and Chrysler Cirrus. I have seen cam sensor wiring like that, it is a poor grade of insulation and distorts when in contact with oil for a long time.
It is okay to twist and pull. Brought the car to the dealership to investigate. Unless there is hot exhaust blowing on the sensor wires, the insulation should not ever melt—these wires do not carry any kind of massive current. A lot of aftermarket replacements have a thin plastic rib molded on the end to set the gap. I'm about to change this crank angle position sensor on my 2003 Dodge Caravan and by looking at the replacement part there is no depth adjustment, the sensor bolts hard against the surface. I have a few questions , did you run it out of oil or did it over heat? Had to take it to a different mechanic because it would take them at least 2 weeks to get one in. Check that there is 5 volts to the sensors with the ignition on and when cranking.
There may be some on Ebay for a good price. Crank Shaft Sensor is located on the front of the engine side toward the radiator and right below the starter. The cam sensor has wire attached to it, where the crank sensor does not. Since 1919, Standard Motor Products has engineered a full line of engine management products, including ignition parts, sensors and on-board computers. Fried wires on the ground side could be a hint of a bad ground from engine to frame.
Behind the front bumper cover or under the hood close to the radiator support? This entire process took about 2. Also because I have no faith in electrical stuff on a Chrysler product. I took it to a mechanic on oct 7th and they couldn't duplicate the no start issue and couldn't find anything, so I was asked to bring it back when their mopar guy was back. At first I thought I just didn't turn the key long enough to start, but in the beginning of October it started getting worse and I knew there was a problem. No click or try to start. Let them do the diagnosis, then you may be able to do the fixing yourself depending on what they say.
Had to take it to a different mechanic because it would take them at least 2 weeks to get one in. I am reporting this because there are not indications prior to failure. They do have factory diagnostic manuals available also to help you find problems like this. Well, I replaced that sensor with a known good one but the engine still just cranked without firing. Who has an idea of what could be going on? Sorry for the delay responding. If possible a pic or detailed location would help.